Rust is my nemesis. It is the arch enemy or rival of anyone that works on automobiles. Or any mechanical stuff that is exposed to the elements. Rust can, and does, turn a 10 minute job into a 3 hour + job in a matter of minutes.
I’ve had plenty of experience with rust. Enough to know that I’ll never own an automobile that has spent its previous life where they dump a ton of salt on the roads all winter. We do that here in Kansas, but it is infrequent. I wash the underbody of my car after each snowstorm melts away.
I spent a couple hours yesterday trying to replace two lug bolts on Dennis’ Caravan. To do this, you have to remove the brake backing plate to get the bolts out of the hub. Now this job has turned into replacing the wheel bearing.
The problem is that the bearing won’t come out of the arm. It is seized in pretty good. So far I have soaked it in rust penetrator for a couple hours and have hit is a zillion times with a sledge hammer. Last night I got a MAP torch out and heated it up pretty good, with no luck.
Man, is it frustrating. I’m heading over to Harbor Freight to look for a Hub Buster. It is a tool you mount on the lug bolts that gives you leverage to wack the thing off with a sledge hammer. If they don’t have one, I’m going to make one out of steel. I’m now sure that is going to work. Any suggestions???
Okay, this was just a little interlude to allow me to get back to level where I can think rationally again. There is nothing in this world that I don’t like less than rust. Okay, I don’t like ticks much.
Another Tucker sleeping photo.
You might want to look for a slide hammer. It does a similar job as you described, but may be a bit more efficient and effective.
Dopers>rust?
At least rust is honest.
And the photo of Tucker????
They make a puller you can rent at auto parts places.
You call that rust? That looks like a 6 month old front axle in New England. Can you drill an access hole in the backing plate to allow the wheel studs to pass through during removal? You could buy a rubber plug to fill the hole when finished?
If using the puller, apply some moderate tension then go at the back of the hub with a hammer. Should do it. Good luck.
The silver lining in the rain cloud is at least you are lucky enough to have the wherewithall and skills to be able to do your own work. For us “wimmen” we have to pay someone (through the nose) huge dollars to do jobs like this or just sell the car and buy another one. There’s no free lunch. And I was never even aware of ticks in all my years of mountain biking, until my brother got lyme disease. He was sick for three years. Now I spray my cycling tights and jerseys with permethrin spray and wear long sleeves whenever I’m in the real mountains, and use a mirror for after ride inspection.
I love your new pooch by the way, sound asleep with a stuffed toy in his mouth. LOL Too funny. Thanks for sharing those pics.
MAPP gas just isn’t good enough, one side is probably cooling down before you get around to the other. Find someone with a Oxy/Acetylene setup if you can, get it warm, and then quench the bearing with a soaking wet towel that you have ready in a bucket of cold water. Then wail on it. Expansion + contraction are what you need.
ain’t seen rust till yah been up north, canada… we use salt everywhere – on our fries, poutine, and roads… I have salt embedded in every orphis of my body along with frost bite.
my winter bike is completely rusted and when i work on my vehicle, it has rust in every orphis as well.
I have the same problem as one of the lug nuts snapped off last time I changed the calipers on the vehicle.
Try an air tool? (chisel or the like)
here’s some good winter riding vids on ice for entertainment, watch while the bearings soak in oil…
https://youtu.be/XSqZIwGDNwc on cyclocross on ice… downhill
https://youtu.be/SwDFfMbrvMA
https://youtu.be/5J8BFswqK9M
Rust Never Sleeps
Heat before the puller. If you have time, let it sit w penetrating fluid soaking.
You call that rust??
Not even close.
You should come to Ohio where they mine that crap in order to screw up our cars.
I HATE rust as well.
Not only is road salt a killer, but parking your car on gravel is the guaranteed way to rust-out the underside of your entire vehicle. Why? ground water evaporates into the undercarriage of the car and rusts it out. For all of you who park the car on gravel, consider investing in a nice asphalt or concrete slab.
Things Tilford doesn’t like:
Rust
Burning
Dopers
Kids not climbing in trees
Guys who bash BMC
Team formation
Mike Crum
Guns
Guys who break into his houses
People who cut down trees for no reason
People who dump stuff in his fenced property
Finishing a race in 5th place
Not understanding the yellow line rule
Helmets
Don’t forget ticks, broken bones, and race radios. And Steve, take that car job to a pro and quit effing around.
Who the fuck is Mike Crum?
Go back in the blog replies.
Heat it and when it is real hot, then spray your rust spray or wd40. It will sizzle so be careful.
Looks like a rear bearing..slide hammer works well or Air hammer down on the ears where the bearing bolts to the knuckle. Once you get the bearing to rotate in the knuckle, rust penetrant and tenacity will bring you success. Best of luck from New England.
We don’t deal with rust/freeze/snow, etc. out here in AZ and CA. Love your loyalty to your hometown/state but you could make your life a helluva lot easier if you just relocated.
Az & Ca? That shit just makes you soft. Well until you run outta water. So better visit Ks for your HTFU prep 🙂
Harry’s brother